Ricktracks

February 5, 1995
In memory of Bill Swartley
Words spoken at All Saints by the Sea Episcopal Church
by Richard S. Sawyer

The Last Ride

It could happen to any of us.
Sometimes we seem invincible.
Most "normal" people never risk it.
They just watch and listen and talk.

We're not exactly sure what drives us
to discover and rediscover a wave's beauty
from "close up", right next to the energy face.
We just must be there.

At any moment, in just about any size surf,
unusual things happen.
We have our internal mind, body and spirit.
We seem to think that we turn into supermen
when we slide on our protective wet suit skin.
Yet we are dealing with the most powerful
form of energy on the planet -- The Ocean Wave.

Late in the day, in early February
a dramatic shift in our thinking occurs.
There's no more football and baseball's yet to come.

It's the bottom of winter.
It's like a new beginning.
Fresh swells are generated from the North Pacific.
The Ranch reefs are clean and we've all had
a chance to warm up our style over the past
few weeks. It might not be the biggest day.
But it's a day when you can get bounced.

Late in the day, with the sun painted
on the horizon, the sets come up out of
the kelp and bump up on the reef.
All systems are a "go".

You turn and arm muscles stretch --
You're up and ducking under the lip.
Then, the power of this almighty source
surges into your limited systems.
You're driven to the bottom
against the urchin reef
and rolled like a doll in a washing machine.

There seems to be no problem.
You've been there before.
The surface is just above you
but suddenly, you're floating in a dream.
You figure you'll be breaking for air and then,
you don't seem to need any --

It's quiet and dark and the sun has set.
A rising spirit leaves your mind and body
and focuses skyward, westward toward
Point Conception, the closest gate to Heaven.

This spirit which has been held and
trapped by the human body is stronger
than the waves, the wind, the reefs.
It is the life spirit of the Universe.
It is proactive and constant.
We are lucky to have this bit of spirit
to mold and shape our life on earth.
This spirit gives our body strength and fills our mind
with piercing thoughts and insights.

It could happen to any of us.
Sometimes we feel invincible.
We are only a small part of the supernatural
Power (that we sometimes profess to control)
We are guided by the overall Force.
We are "clinging on" as a bit of the whole.

So when you paddle out to the lineup,
speak gently to the boys, and
when you turn to catch the moving hill
in one brief moment say a prayer for Bill.